Istanbul or as we have studied in history Byzantium, Constantinople, or Stamboul is the bridge that connects Asia and Europe. It also connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara. Istanbul is bustling with rich architecture and delectable food. It is one of the largest and oldest cities in Europe. The Bosphorus strait divides Istanbul into two parts, the Thracian (European) and the Anatolian (Asian) part. Nearly 15 million people call it their home! So much for the homework on Istanbul, I did before my visit.

Just before the devastating earthquakes hit, we tagged along with my husband on his work trip to Turkiye. Our visa stamp named us as visitors from ‘Hindistan’ (that’s the way Turks refer to India). The Istanbul airport greeted us with Turkish, English & guess what, Chinese signboards, a reflection of the number of Chinese visitors to the country. In the first leg, we spent a good 10 days in solitude in the remote town of Biga near the mighty Canakkale strait. No internet, no TV, surrounded by jungle and the stunning sea of Marmara. On our journey back, we acclimated to the urban atmosphere by spending for a few days in Istanbul. I seized the opportunity to explore Istanbul first-hand with my teenage son. What I discovered was far from what I expected.

My travelogue begins in Sultanahmet district where most tourist attractions lay—including Aya Sofia (Hagia Sophia) Museum, Topkapı Palace Museum, Blue Mosque, Grand Bazaar, and Spice Market. Walking along ancient streets lined up with picturesque architecture was an exceptional experience. But with the sky adorning these picturesque monuments one could not fail but notice people eating out of dustbins. Yes, the sight of toddlers with mothers and young people rummaging through trash and scouting for thrown-away food left an indelible mark on my mind. (Please do not equate this with the way western media profiles India by showing slums and poverty). Sincerely it is painful to see such sights. The challenging times locals have been facing, living with hyperinflation only add to increasing poverty levels. Yet the locals are quite friendly & hospitable while adapting admirably despite all the economic struggles. It surely helped clear my fears about how people will treat us given that their President never misses a chance to side with Pakistan.

From exploring Hagia Sophia or taking a cruise down the Bosphorus or indulging in Turkish Delights on every nook and corner. The ‘çay’ Turkish tea shops (pronounced chai, black tea) reminded me of the ubiquitous ‘Amrutatulyas’ in Pune. The magnificent Dolmabahce Palace which gave a peek into the ways of the Ottomon rulers. Getting lost in 64 lanes of Grand Bazar shopping extravaganza is something not to be missed — any traveller will be spoiled with abundance during their visit here. A visit to Taksim square and Istiklal Avenue for all new-age shopping with all the ubiquitous brands. My son was in awe of the 7 storey outlets of Adidas and Nike and made sure we spent most of our time there.

Amidst all these wonders lie some sobering issues facing Turks today—food inflation has reached 102% and energy inflation is touching 123% on a year-on-year basis. Average citizens in difficult positions wondering how they will make ends meet without being taken advantage of financially trying to simply exist day-to-day!

In talking with locals while we were with my husband, many echoed sentiments that things have become too pricey – ranging from groceries, entertainment costs such as going out to movies, etc., & fuel/energy bill related expenses – all these items happen to rise steadily, making a price point almost irrelevant since what seemed expensive just a few days back may seem cheap couple days later due to wild inflationary trends! This is mostly due to increasing currency devaluation arising from government debt obligations and geopolitical tensions. It has crippled the local purchasing power. Yet, people seemed to have kept peace despite these circumstances showing an immense amount of resilience under severe inequality levels.

As I boarded my flight back home, I knew I had only scratched the surface of all that Istanbul had to offer. This city with its rich history, delicious food, and friendly people truly enchanted me.

Here is a ready reckoner for any wannabe visitors:

  • It is best to explore the city on foot. Use local transport wherever possible. The city
    has good connectivity with Trams, Ferries, the Metro, etc.b) Try the Turkish Baklava at Faruk Gulluoglu
  • Baklava (I liked it better) or Hafiz
    Mustafa which has so many branches across the city that you will hardly miss it. Try
    the basic Baklava with Pistachios, it’s awesome.
  • Must try Turkish tea which is served in traditional Turkish cups and bite-sized
    Turkish delights. It is tea without milk and sugar, a healthier option indeed. I saw
    many small kids drinking it as well.
  • Kumpir Potatoes, Doners are must-try dishes.
  • Turkey is very famous for Hamams (Turkish baths), you should remember it from the
    movie, ‘Dil Dhadakne Do’. Quite pricy at approx. Euro 100, but worth a try.
  • ‘Tamam’ is a Turkish word that is often used, it means ‘ok’, and ‘theek hai’.
  • Many people mistook us as Pakistanis and were eloquent in Hindi as well.
  • The exchange rate of 1 Turkish Lira is approx. 4 – 4.3 India Rupee.